My 15 principles of growing gladioli

My many years of experience are included in the gladiolus cultivation manual and it is of course updated every year with new preparations for the protection and nutrition of gladiolus. However, I want to remind you that I also use several professional products that I do not mention here, they are not normally available in stores.

During 45 years of growing and crossing gladioli, I have experienced a lot. I eliminated complicated and unnecessary and time-consuming procedures. I want to spend as much time as possible with gladioli improving them - crossing, that is, breeding new varieties.

Of course, I'm not stating anything revolutionary here, I'm just reminding you of the principles of growing gladioli, summarized in 15 points.

1. Suitable location The sun must not be absent and the wind as little as possible, because swordfish really do not like wind. If you have no other option, grow them in the same place every year, but it is best to rotate the beds in a three- or multi-year cycle. If you have to plant in the same place, make sure that there are no wireworms or other pests in the soil that could puncture the tuber and thus open the door to fungal diseases, especially Fusarium, Botrytis and Bacteriosis.

2. Soil preparation Almost any type of soil suits the plants, because it can usually be modified as needed, for example more acidic (pH 3-5.5) can be limed to an ideal pH of 6.5. The exception is heavily waterlogged soil, which is prone to fungal diseases. Before planting the tubers, the soil should be loosened to a depth of +- 30 cm. To suppress the influence of unwanted fungi in the soil and especially for the proper nutrition of gladioli, you can use the ecological preparation Azoter, which is available from the manufacturer and for gardeners. Just before treating the soil, use it according to the instructions on the product packaging. I have good experience with it and not only for gladiolus, but also for commercial crops.

 Do you have experience with wire workers on the property? In gardens near grassy areas or fields, you will probably never get rid of them completely, but you can significantly reduce their occurrence to an acceptable level. If you have more acidic soil and there are wireworms, 2 weeks before planting the tubers, spread nitrogenous lime (about 75 g per 1 m2) on the area and work it into the soil. Attention, do not plant before the lime has reacted in the soil, you can burn the seedlings and even dispose of them! , which unfortunately has already happened to me. It is safer and more effective to spread the product FORCE 1.5 G on the affected land with wire before tilling the soil, but also in the rows when planting. The product is not the cheapest (purchase only via the Internet, it is not available in retail) but the guarantee of exterminating pests is, according to my experience 98%. It is not necessary to add any granular fertilizer to humus soil before planting, especially if well-aged farmyard manure was used the previous year.

3. Planting material A quality one-year tuber is almost round in shape, but often the best quality is a 2-year tuber. Namely, in the first year, the tuber after being grown from a stock with poor nutrition and care (or it is from a small stock) will not "correct" the maximum possible size of the tubers and thus the parameters of the flower!. In a 2-year-old well-nourished tuber, the shape of the tuber is less round and almost flat. Such a tuber has a larger diameter than a 1-year-old tuber, has an almost smooth circumference, and the root crown is smaller in diameter. If the same tuber is planted in the 3rd or 4th year, the diameter of the tuber is approximately the same as that of the two-year-old, but the tuber is usually flat with more pronounced protrusions around the circumference and has a large diameter of the root crown. It is typical for such a tuber that in the spring many dormant buds will wake up, i.e. many shoots will sprout. It is advisable to break off all sprouts and leave only one dominant one. If you leave 2-3 buds, the stems will grow obliquely with a tendency to roll out and cover themselves, and the flowers will be of lower quality.

 In case of emergency, the old tuber can be used to save the variety by removing the brut with it and restoring quality seedlings. If we are saving the variety, it is necessary to break off the forming flower ear in order to grow as much high-quality raw material as possible for the propagation of the variety.

The choice of variety is up to the taste of each of you. For many years, the composition of the assortment of gladioli in the offer of retail chains from Dutch suppliers has not changed. The offer includes very old, mostly simple, smooth-skinned and dull-colored varieties. Visitors to the exhibitions organized by the Gladiola Martin and Gladiris association are surprised at how many beautiful gladioli there are in shape and color. Newly bred gladioli are also modern in that they last a long time in a vase, they can hold 10 or more open flowers at the same time, they have a high number of buds up to 30, they are strongly waxy and the flower petals are beautifully gathered. Recently, full-flowered, brindle and, most recently, flowers with needle petals have been bred. And so it is not surprising when the largest Dutch producer of gladiolus seedlings expressed interest in supplying Slovak breeding varieties for their commercial needs.

It should be noted that individual varieties have different lengths of vegetation (from 60 to 110 days). In more northern areas, therefore, grow earlier varieties. A serious supplier will state this in the offer. Let's not forget that after flowering, the tubers must mature in the soil for at least a month.

4. Seedling preparation 2-3 weeks before planting, unless the tubers show sprouts of at least 0.5 cm or more in size (due to the low storage temperature) and waiting roots, increase the storage temperature to 18°C or more so that the tuber woke up from winter sleep - dormancy. In the case of older tubers, several sprouts are expected to wake up at the same time. Leave only one dominant, maximum two and let the wounds dry. . By increasing the temperature and thus also the formation of sprouts, you will significantly shorten the time until flowering and there will be more time for the tubers to mature after the flowers have been harvested. Especially suitable for northern areas and late blooming varieties.

5. Proper planting We plant as soon as possible, as soon as we can work with the soil so that it remains in autumn after the flowers have bloomed for at least a month for new tubers to ripen. Before planting, lightly fertilize the stock, preferably with the preparation Osmocote Pro 3-4, directly in the beds for seedlings. This will ensure a gradual and regular supply of all nutrients, including trace elements, during the important period of growth and flowering, i.e. 3-4 months after planting.

 Plant large tubers to a depth of 10 cm, in drier soils you can also plant deeper. Small tubers or brutes shallower to a depth of approximately 5 cm. Plant only the largest brutes with a spacing of 5 cm, and before planting some varieties with a very hard cover-skin, soften them for about 15 minutes. in the preparation Savo (not concentrated). Keep a distance between the tubers about the width of the diameter of the tuber (5-7 cm), which you will appreciate when flowering. The plants will support each other, there is no danger of them breaking out. Due to the density of planting, however, it is necessary to think about a sufficient supply of nutrition. If there is enough space, you can also plant tubers with a distance of 10 cm or more. Then it is advisable to use support sticks during flowering.

6. Row spacing The proven row spacing is 40-50 cm, while they should be oriented in the north-south direction, but this is not a strict condition. Currently, I plant in three rows with a distance of 40 cm and a path of 50 cm, which allows me to comfortably care for the gladioli from both sides and the gladioli shade each other less. In the front gardens, you can plant in different shapes, but pay attention to the height of the varieties, so that they do not overlap each other, and that they harmonize nicely with each other in color.

7. Irrigation After planting the tuber and brut, water it well. The need for water for gladiolus increases with the approach of flowering, while it decreases with flowering until the end of vegetation. Do not over-soak the soil, but do not let it dry out completely either. Strongly mineralized water is not very suitable for swordfish, so it is ideal to capture and use rain water. Brut should always be moist to start the germination process.

One good-tested advice! The last summers have been extremely hot and dry, when the growth of gladioli stagnates or the flowers dry up and open poorly, the colors lose their saturation. At that time, I connect the hose directly to the cold water pump from the well and set the nozzle of the sprayer to fine drops to mist and spray high above the gladioli. A fine, partially heated water mist is produced, which will greatly please the gladioli and they will come to life right before your eyes. In this case, there is no need to be afraid of cold water. It works similar to when we pass through the fog gates.

If you have drip irrigation, you will make the gladioli very happy if you start it during the hottest time with the condition that you do not soak the soil near the tubers by more than 2-4 cm and 1-2 cm in the gross !!!. The root system of the tubers (of course not even the leaves) must not be affected by cold water to the will of heat shock.

Attention, I encountered a case where the drying leaves were very similar to the Fusarium disease, that is, they dried up from the tip down and the leaves turned pale. In the end, it was just insufficient watering during high temperatures for the gladiolus roots. Check mechanically whether there is a supply of moisture at the roots! .

8. Fertilization The soil in gardens has different levels of nutrients or pH value, so I recommend to analyze at least the basic nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) once every three to five years. If you fertilize the beds with farmyard manure, then only well-ripened manure, preferably in the form of biohumus, otherwise you risk an increased incidence of fungal diseases. The fertilization interval varies from garden to garden, as it depends on the quality of the soil, its permeability, old nutrient reserves, etc.

Rather than overfertilized ones, however, in practice you will encounter malnourished gladioli, mainly due to dense planting and the associated lack of nutrition or due to incorrect application of fertilizers. If there is over-fertilization, you will recognize it by the fact that the entire stem, including the flower head, will be unnaturally stretched, the spacing between the flowers will be untypical for the given variety. Tubers of gladiolus, especially those fertilized with nitrogen, are susceptible to fungal diseases not only during storage, but especially during cultivation in the next season.

After the formation of 4-5 leaves, when the newly formed tuber has already rooted and the entire root system is developed, fertilize with Cererito and work it into the soil !! so that unstable nitrogen is not lost from the fertilizer. Fertilize again with Cererit in the next period, especially when the flower spike appears until flowering. I use Cererit from the 4th leaf twice until flowering, but in a small amount!. I also spray 2-3 times on the leaves with Kristalon fruit and flower to provide the plant with trace elements. After flowering, fertilize with a fertilizer with a minimum nitrogen content and a higher potassium and phosphorus content (potassium sulfate, Kristalon autumn a.p.).

With all spraying, it is necessary to use a wetting agent in order to create perfectly and continuously wetted leaf surfaces. For gladiolus leaves, it is not enough to use the recommended amount of wetting agent from the manufacturer, e.g. Silwet Star 0.1 ml per 10 l of water. I have tried adding 0.3 ml of wetting agent per 10 l of water to sprays, because otherwise small droplets would form on the leaves and the entire spray will have a significantly reduced effectiveness. Of course, it also depends on the pressure and distance when spraying, you have to try it. A simple test of proper wetting of a leaf is to dip a gladiolus leaf into the spray. The leaf should be continuously covered.

It may seem that the fertilizing that I do during the entire vegetation period is too intense. In my case it is not so. It is only adapted to the density of planting tubers, between which there is only a 4-5 cm gap, and the quality of the soil. With different planting density and soil nutrition, you can significantly reduce the intensity of fertilizing.

9. Protection against fungal diseases Remember that when mushrooms start to grow in the nearby forest, the conditions for their occurrence have also been created in the garden. Carry out a preventive spraying with some of the preparations such as Kuprikol 50, Champion 50 WG, Teldor 500 SC (against botrytis), etc., but don't forget the mentioned wetting agent, otherwise the effectiveness will be 70 percent lower. However, if you use any of the biological fungicides against fungi, find out if the tolerance to the organic product is good. For example bacterial preparation Azoter, tolerates several fungicides (verified in laboratories). It is also important to protect against thrips, which can completely destroy developing flowers under favorable temperature and humidity and participate in the transmission of viruses and fungal diseases together with aphids.

10. Protection against thrips In the fall (if you didn't make it in the spring, but this period is less suitable), the gladiolus tubers should be pickled as a protection against the appearance of thrips under the scales, with one of the preparations: Decis AL, Decis Protech, Karate Zeon 5 CS, etc. .During the season, use blue glue plates to signal, attract and catch thrips, but also other mammalian insects. When first found on the board, especially in warm and dry weather, spray with Decis AL or Decis Protech. Be careful when using Karate Zeon 5 CS and mix the lowest recommended spray concentration, otherwise you may burn the leaves. Repeat the spraying as needed, usually at 10 to 14 day intervals, basically also during flowering, as the flowering time range is approximately +-50 days, depending on the variety and the size of the tuber. Sprays can (unless the manufacturer prohibits it) be combined with fungicides and foliar nutrition.

Mammalian insects, but especially thrips, are carriers of viral diseases. The virus on the flowers is manifested by pale spots compared to the original color and on the leaves by light white-yellow stripes. The virus is incurable and is also transmitted through brutes to new tubers. Viruses are present in most swordfishes, but individual varieties are differently resistant. Autumn pickling of tubers is a good prevention against thrips. We will limit the occurrence of thrips during the season with the aforementioned sprays.

WARNING !

leaves and flowers damaged by thrips can easily be mistaken for a virus! , so that you don't accidentally throw out otherwise healthy plants. The places on the leaves and flowers damaged by thrips are visibly thinner from being bitten, weakened (almost translucent) and run intermittently more or less straight along the suffocated cells separated by veins, in contrast to virosis, which is more in the form of spots scattered over the entire leaf and flower and especially the thickness of the virus leaves and flowers are the same everywhere!

11. Care of the soil The garden with gladiolus should be loosened as needed during the growing season. If we do not loosen the soil enough, plant roots partially die and this promotes an increased susceptibility to bacterial and fungal diseases. Before flowering, close the soil to the plants on both sides so that they do not lie down after rain and wind.

12. Harvesting flowers The flower stalk must be broken as low as possible by tilting it sharply to the sides and pulling the flower out of the axil of the leaves. Save the leaf area, it will be necessary for the good ripening of the tubers. I do not recommend cutting with a knife, because of the possibility of transmission of botrytis or viral diseases (?). If you come across shape or color deviations during the collection of flowers - deficiencies in the given variety, do not propagate such plants further. Mark the best individuals of the given variety and only use this brut for further breeding (so-called positive selection).

13. Harvesting and treatment of tubers Take the tubers from the soil at least one month after flowering, but also later, but not after the fungal diseases on the leaves have completely spread. After removing the tuber from the soil, the stem must be broken off, not cut off or cut off, because this way the preparation against thrips and fungi used later will better get under the scales of the tuber. It is good to immediately remove the entire old tuber and its root ball, especially on older and larger tubers, although it will not be the easiest. It is not advisable to clean them from the scales or roots in the place of storage, because you breathe in chemical vapors and dust. If you have the necessary conditions and protective equipment, leave the tubers with the root ball at a temperature above 20°C for 15-20 days. Then they can be easily separated from the dried root ball. I do not recommend removing all scales from the surface of the tuber, only the first or second layer. The tuber is unnecessarily dried out, and in the event of a fungal disease during storage, fewer tubers will be infected when they are at least partially separated by scales.

 If after harvesting the tubers are slightly damaged by punctures and subsequent infection with bacteria (Bacteriosis), do not remove the shiny dents. The tuber would dry out and the exfoliated wounds could be a site of re-infection. Healthy plants can grow from such tubers. Dispose of heavily damaged ones, especially at the root crown and dormant buds.

14. Pickling against thrips and fungi We can combine in one operation, the mixability of the preparations is usually good and indicated. We use one of the preparations against dandruff: Decis AL, Decis Protech, Karate Zeon 5 CS and add e.g. Teldor 500 SC semi-systemic against Botrytis, Champion 50 wg against fungal disease Fusarium and bacteria. They are mostly mixable together. Marinate for approximately 15 minutes, while stirring the tubers.

15. Storing the tubers After you have treated the tubers, dry them in a ventilated place or somewhere warm and dry for about 10-15 days. Better not in the sun. On underripe tubers, burns form - dark spots (only an appearance defect). Store at a temperature of 2 to 12 °C and a humidity of about 60 to 80 percent. Move them occasionally, ventilate them and check their health. Frequent storage losses are caused by the Fusarium fungus, which causes soft rot with a white fungal coating. The usual cause is insufficiently treated and poorly dried tubers or high storage humidity combined with higher room temperature, especially for tubers overfertilized with nitrogen or otherwise weakened.

 

 

My many years of experience are included in the gladiolus cultivation manual and it is of course updated every year with new preparations for the protection and nutrition of gladiolus. However, I want to remind you that I also use several professional products that I do not mention here, they are not normally available in stores.
 
   During 45 years of growing and crossing gladioli, I have experienced a lot. I eliminated complicated and unnecessary and time-consuming procedures. I want to spend as much time as possible with gladioli improving them - crossing, that is, breeding new varieties.
 
   Of course, I'm not stating anything revolutionary here, I'm just reminding you of the principles of growing gladioli, summarized in 15 points.
 
 
 
1. Suitable location The sun must not be absent and the wind as little as possible, because swordfish really do not like wind. If you have no other option, grow them in the same place every year, but it is best to rotate the beds in a three- or multi-year cycle. If you have to plant in the same place, make sure that there are no wireworms or other pests in the soil that could puncture the tuber and thus open the door to fungal diseases, especially Fusarium, Botrytis and Bacteriosis.
 
 
 
2. Soil preparation Almost any type of soil suits the plants, because it can usually be modified as needed, for example more acidic (pH 3-5.5) can be limed to an ideal pH of 6.5. The exception is heavily waterlogged soil, which is prone to fungal diseases. Before planting the tubers, the soil should be loosened to a depth of +- 30 cm. To suppress the influence of unwanted fungi in the soil and especially for the proper nutrition of gladioli, you can use the ecological preparation Azoter, which is available from the manufacturer and for gardeners. Just before treating the soil, use it according to the instructions on the product packaging. I have good experience with it and not only for gladiolus, but also for commercial crops.
 
   Do you have experience with wire workers on the property? In gardens near grassy areas or fields, you will probably never get rid of them completely, but you can significantly reduce their occurrence to an acceptable level. If you have more acidic soil and there are wireworms, 2 weeks before planting the tubers, spread nitrogenous lime (about 75 g per 1 m2) on the area and work it into the soil. Attention, do not plant before the lime has reacted in the soil, you can burn the seedlings and even dispose of them! , which unfortunately has already happened to me. It is safer and more effective to spread the product FORCE 1.5 G on the affected land with wire before tilling the soil, but also in the rows when planting. The product is not the cheapest (purchase only via the Internet, it is not available in retail) but the guarantee of exterminating pests is, according to my experience 98%. It is not necessary to add any granular fertilizer to humus soil before planting, especially if well-aged farmyard manure was used the previous year.
 
 
 
3. Planting material A quality one-year tuber is almost round in shape, but often the best quality is a 2-year tuber. Namely, in the first year, the tuber after being grown from a stock with poor nutrition and care (or it is from a small stock) will not "correct" the maximum possible size of the tubers and thus the parameters of the flower!. In a 2-year-old well-nourished tuber, the shape of the tuber is less round and almost flat. Such a tuber has a larger diameter than a 1-year-old tuber, has an almost smooth circumference, and the root crown is smaller in diameter. If the same tuber is planted in the 3rd or 4th year, the diameter of the tuber is approximately the same as that of the two-year-old, but the tuber is usually flat with more pronounced protrusions around the circumference and has a large diameter of the root crown. It is typical for such a tuber that in the spring many dormant buds will wake up, i.e. many shoots will sprout. It is advisable to break off all sprouts and leave only one dominant one. If you leave 2-3 buds, the stems will grow obliquely with a tendency to roll out and cover themselves, and the flowers will be of lower quality.
 
   In case of emergency, the old tuber can be used to save the variety by removing the brut with it and restoring quality seedlings. If we are saving the variety, it is necessary to break off the forming flower ear in order to grow as much high-quality raw material as possible for the propagation of the variety.
 
   The choice of variety is up to the taste of each of you. For many years, the composition of the assortment of gladioli in the offer of retail chains from Dutch suppliers has not changed. The offer includes very old, mostly simple, smooth-skinned and dull-colored varieties. Visitors to the exhibitions organized by the Gladiola Martin and Gladiris association are surprised at how many beautiful gladioli there are in shape and color. Newly bred gladioli are also modern in that they last a long time in a vase, they can hold 10 or more open flowers at the same time, they have a high number of buds up to 30, they are strongly waxy and the flower petals are beautifully gathered. Recently, full-flowered, brindle and, most recently, flowers with needle petals have been bred. And so it is not surprising when the largest Dutch producer of gladiolus seedlings expressed interest in supplying Slovak breeding varieties for their commercial needs.
 
It should be noted that individual varieties have different lengths of vegetation (from 60 to 110 days). In more northern areas, therefore, grow earlier varieties. A serious supplier will state this in the offer. Let's not forget that after flowering, the tubers must mature in the soil for at least a month.
My 15 principles of growing gladioli
 
 
 
   My many years of experience are included in the gladiolus cultivation manual and it is of course updated every year with new preparations for the protection and nutrition of gladiolus. However, I want to remind you that I also use several professional products that I do not mention here, they are not normally available in stores.
 
   During 45 years of growing and crossing gladioli, I have experienced a lot. I eliminated complicated and unnecessary and time-consuming procedures. I want to spend as much time as possible with gladioli improving them - crossing, that is, breeding new varieties.
 
   Of course, I'm not stating anything revolutionary here, I'm just reminding you of the principles of growing gladioli, summarized in 15 points.
 
 
 
1. Suitable location The sun must not be absent and the wind as little as possible, because swordfish really do not like wind. If you have no other option, grow them in the same place every year, but it is best to rotate the beds in a three- or multi-year cycle. If you have to plant in the same place, make sure that there are no wireworms or other pests in the soil that could puncture the tuber and thus open the door to fungal diseases, especially Fusarium, Botrytis and Bacteriosis.15 principles of growing gladioli
 
 
 
   My many years of experience are included in the gladiolus cultivation manual and it is of course updated every year with new preparations for the protection and nutrition of gladiolus. However, I want to remind you that I also use several professional products that I do not mention here, they are not normally available in stores.
 
   During 45 years of growing and crossing gladioli, I have experienced a lot. I eliminated complicated and unnecessary and time-consuming procedures. I want to spend as much time as possible with gladioli improving them - crossing, that is, breeding new varieties.
 
   Of course, I'm not stating anything revolutionary here, I'm just reminding you of the principles of growing gladioli, summarized in 15 points.
 
 
 
1. Suitable location The sun must not be absent and the wind as little as possible, because swordfish really do not like wind. If you have no other option, grow them in the same place every year, but it is best to rotate the beds in a three- or multi-year cycle. If you have to plant in the same place, make sure that there are no wireworms or other pests in the soil that could puncture the tuber and thus open the door to fungal diseases, especially Fusarium, Botrytis and Bacteriosis.My 15 principles of growing gladioli
 
 
 
   My many years of experience are included in the gladiolus cultivation manual and it is of course updated every year with new preparations for the protection and nutrition of gladiolus. However, I want to remind you that I also use several professional products that I do not mention here, they are not normally available in stores.
 
   During 45 years of growing and crossing gladioli, I have experienced a lot. I eliminated complicated and unnecessary and time-consuming procedures. I want to spend as much time as possible with gladioli improving them - crossing, that is, breeding new varieties.
 
   Of course, I'm not stating anything revolutionary here, I'm just reminding you of the principles of growing gladioli, summarized in 15 points.
 
 
 
1. Suitable location The sun must not be absent and the wind as little as possible, because swordfish really do not like wind. If you have no other option, grow them in the same place every year, but it is best to rotate the beds in a three- or multi-year cycle. If you have to plant in the same place, make sure that there are no wireworms or other pests in the soil that could puncture the tuber and thus open the door to fungal diseases, especially Fusarium, Botrytis and Bacteriosis.
 
 
 
2. Soil preparation Almost any type of soil suits the plants, because it can usually be modified as needed, for example more acidic (pH 3-5.5) can be limed to an ideal pH of 6.5. The exception is heavily waterlogged soil, which is prone to fungal diseases. Before planting the tubers, the soil should be loosened to a depth of +- 30 cm. To suppress the influence of unwanted fungi in the soil and especially for the proper nutrition of gladioli, you can use the ecological preparation Azoter, which is available from the manufacturer and for gardeners. Just before treating the soil, use it according to the instructions on the product packaging. I have good experience with it and not only for gladiolus, but also for commercial crops.
 
   Do you have experience with wire workers on the property? In gardens near grassy areas or fields, you will probably never get rid of them completely, but you can significantly reduce their occurrence to an acceptable level. If you have more acidic soil and there are wireworms, 2 weeks before planting the tubers, spread nitrogenous lime (about 75 g per 1 m2) on the area and work it into the soil. Attention, do not plant before the lime has reacted in the soil, you can burn the seedlings and even dispose of them! , which unfortunately has already happened to me. It is safer and more effective to spread the product FORCE 1.5 G on the affected land with wire before tilling the soil, but also in the rows when planting. The product is not the cheapest (purchase only via the Internet, it is not available in retail) but the guarantee of exterminating pests is, according to my experience 98%. It is not necessary to add any granular fertilizer to humus soil before planting, especially if well-aged farmyard manure was used the previous year.
 
 
 
3. Planting material A quality one-year tuber is almost round in shape, but often the best quality is a 2-year tuber. Namely, in the first year, the tuber after being grown from a stock with poor nutrition and care (or it is from a small stock) will not "correct" the maximum possible size of the tubers and thus the parameters of the flower!. In a 2-year-old well-nourished tuber, the shape of the tuber is less round and almost flat. Such a tuber has a larger diameter than a 1-year-old tuber, has an almost smooth circumference, and the root crown is smaller in diameter. If the same tuber is planted in the 3rd or 4th year, the diameter of the tuber is approximately the same as that of the two-year-old, but the tuber is usually flat with more pronounced protrusions around the circumference and has a large diameter of the root crown. It is typical for such a tuber that in the spring many dormant buds will wake up, i.e. many shoots will sprout. It is advisable to break off all sprouts and leave only one dominant one. If you leave 2-3 buds, the stems will grow obliquely with a tendency to roll out and cover themselves, and the flowers will be of lower quality.
 
   In case of emergency, the old tuber can be used to save the variety by removing the brut with it and restoring quality seedlings. If we are saving the variety, it is necessary to break off the forming flower ear in order to grow as much high-quality raw material as possible for the propagation of the variety.
 
   The choice of variety is up to the taste of each of you. For many years, the composition of the assortment of gladioli in the offer of retail chains from Dutch suppliers has not changed. The offer includes very old, mostly simple, smooth-skinned and dull-colored varieties. Visitors to the exhibitions organized by the Gladiola Martin and Gladiris association are surprised at how many beautiful gladioli there are in shape and color. Newly bred gladioli are also modern in that they last a long time in a vase, they can hold 10 or more open flowers at the same time, they have a high number of buds up to 30, they are strongly waxy and the flower petals are beautifully gathered. Recently, full-flowered, brindle and, most recently, flowers with needle petals have been bred. And so it is not surprising when the largest Dutch producer of gladiolus seedlings expressed interest in supplying Slovak breeding varieties for their commercial needs.
 
It should be noted that individual varieties have different lengths of vegetation (from 60 to 110 days). In more northern areas, therefore, grow earlier varieties. A serious supplier will state this in the offer. Let's not forget that after flowering, the tubers must mature in the soil for at least a month.
 
 
 
4. Preparation 15 principles of growing gladioli
 
 
 
   My many years of experience are included in the gladiolus cultivation manual and it is of course updated every year with new preparations for the protection and nutrition of gladiolus. However, I want to remind you that I also use several professional products that I do not mention here, they are not normally available in stores.
 
   During 45 years of growing and crossing gladioli, I have experienced a lot. I eliminated complicated and unnecessary and time-consuming procedures. I want to spend as much time as possible with gladioli improving them - crossing, that is, breeding new varieties.
 
   Of course, I'm not stating anything revolutionary here, I'm just reminding you of the principles of growing gladioli, summarized in 15 points.
 
 
 
1. Suitable location The sun must not be absent and the wind as little as possible, because swordfish really do not like wind. If you have no other option, grow them in the same place every year, but it is best to rotate the beds in a three- or multi-year cycle. If you have to plant in the same place, make sure that there are no wireworms or other pests in the soil that could puncture the tuber and thus open the door to fungal diseases, especially Fusarium, Botrytis and Bacteriosis.
 
 
 
2. Soil preparation Almost any type of soil suits the plants, because it can usually be modified as needed, for example more acidic (pH 3-5.5) can be limed to an ideal pH of 6.5. The exception is heavily waterlogged soil, which is prone to fungal diseases. Before planting the tubers, the soil should be loosened to a depth of +- 30 cm. To suppress the influence of unwanted fungi in the soil and especially for the proper nutrition of gladioli, you can use the ecological preparation Azoter, which is available from the manufacturer and for gardeners. Just before treating the soil, use it according to the instructions on the product packaging. I have good experience with it and not only for gladiolus, but also for commercial crops.
 
   Do you have experience with wire workers on the property? In gardens near grassy areas or fields, you will probably never get rid of them completely, but you can significantly reduce their occurrence to an acceptable level. If you have more acidic soil and there are wireworms, 2 weeks before planting the tubers, spread nitrogenous lime (about 75 g per 1 m2) on the area and work it into the soil. Attention, do not plant before the lime has reacted in the soil, you can burn the seedlings and even dispose of them! , which unfortunately has already happened to me. It is safer and more effective to spread the product FORCE 1.5 G on the affected land with wire before tilling the soil, but also in the rows when planting. The product is not the cheapest (purchase only via the Internet, it is not available in retail) but the guarantee of exterminating pests is, according to my experience 98%. It is not necessary to add any granular fertilizer to humus soil before planting, especially if well-aged farmyard manure was used the previous year.
 
 
 
3. Planting material A quality one-year tuber is almost round in shape, but often the best quality is a 2-year tuber. Namely, in the first year, the tuber after being grown from a stock with poor nutrition and care (or it is from a small stock) will not "correct" the maximum possible size of the tubers and thus the parameters of the flower!. In a 2-year-old well-nourished tuber, the shape of the tuber is less round and almost flat. Such a tuber has a larger diameter than a 1-year-old tuber, has an almost smooth circumference, and the root crown is smaller in diameter. If the same tuber is planted in the 3rd or 4th year, the diameter of the tuber is approximately the same as that of the two-year-old, but the tuber is usually flat with more pronounced protrusions around the circumference and has a large diameter of the root crown. It is typical for such a tuber that in the spring many dormant buds will wake up, i.e. many shoots will sprout. It is advisable to break off all sprouts and leave only one dominant one. If you leave 2-3 buds, the stems will grow obliquely with a tendency to roll out and cover themselves, and the flowers will be of lower quality.
 
   In case of emergency, the old tuber can be used to save the variety by removing the brut with it and restoring quality seedlings. If we are saving the variety, it is necessary to break off the forming flower ear in order to grow as much high-quality raw material as possible for the propagation of the variety.
 
   The choice of variety is up to the taste of each of you. For many years, the composition of the assortment of gladioli in the offer of retail chains from Dutch suppliers has not changed. The offer includes very old, mostly simple, smooth-skinned and dull-colored varieties. Visitors to the exhibitions organized by the Gladiola Martin and Gladiris association are surprised at how many beautiful gladioli there are in shape and color. Newly bred gladioli are also modern in that they last a long time in a vase, they can hold 10 or more open flowers at the same time, they have a high number of buds up to 30, they are strongly waxy and the flower petals are beautifully gathered. Recently, full-flowered, brindle and, most recently, flowers with needle petals have been bred. And so it is not surprising when the largest Dutch producer of gladiolus seedlings expressed interest in supplying Slovak breeding varieties for their commercial needs.
 
It should be noted that individual varieties have different lengths of vegetation (from 60 to 110 days). In more northern areas, therefore, grow earlier varieties. A serious supplier will state this in the offer. Let's not forget that after flowering, the tubers must mature in the soil for at least a month.
 
 
 
4. Preparation